Picking a perfectly ripe summer melon is like folding a fitted sheet—forever a struggle. Here’s a salad that can save even the most mediocre specimen. A simple combination of sharp shallot and hot green chile generously dressed with lemon, olive oil, and salt will transform that subpar fruit into something juicy and joy-inducing. Salty crumbles of feta help too. Instead of cantaloupe, try honeydew, Hami melon, or even ripe papaya or mango, which will also take brilliantly to this treatment.