Milan Fashion Week closes with Andreādamo, Avavav, and Chiccomao

The final day of Milan Fashion Week highlighted the event’s renowned diversity and global reach, closing the week with three standout collections. Andreādamo offered effortlessly summery and wearable designs, Avavav brought a spirited and unconventional athletic-inspired showcase, while Chiccomao made a vibrant Milan debut, ending the day on an eclectic and energetic note.
 

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Following a one-year hiatus, Andreādamo returned to the runway with a collection that seamlessly blended sensuality with ease. The backstage atmosphere was charged with excitement as designer Andrea Adamo meticulously inspected final details. Known for his inclusive, body-positive approach that often celebrates nudity, this season saw him take a different tack, playfully veiling his models to accentuate their forms in new and inventive ways. The collection’s standout feature was trompe-l’œil designs, creating the illusion of nude bodies subtly sketched onto figure-hugging knit dresses, tops, and skirts.

“In the past, I transformed lingerie into everyday outerwear. Now, it’s the body itself, through these trompe-l’œil illusions, that dresses the woman. Ironically, she has never been more covered,” remarked the designer with a knowing smile. His label is now distributed by approximately 30 retailers worldwide.

Knitwear remained the focal point of the collection, with delicate, ultra-fine garments designed to cling to the body in a play of transparency. Off-the-shoulder tops, stretch dresses that embraced the silhouette, macramé ensembles, and sinuous mesh fabrics woven from viscose and lurex created a shimmering, ethereal quality. A standout look featured black fishnet trousers adorned with sparkling sequins, embodying both the intricacy and ease of the collection.
 

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Fringes, swirling and cascading, adorned many of the pieces, creating a sense of fluid motion throughout the collection. These fringes, crafted from fabrics, beads, or embroidered crystals, lent an ethereal femininity to the garments. This overtly feminine detailing was tempered by a more muted, autumnal colour palette, with monochromatic looks in black, chocolate, beige, nude, and white. Masculine elements, like oversized leather jackets and voluminous, calf-cinched trousers reminiscent of joggers, balanced the collection’s overall softness.

Unexpected leather bubble skirts and tops also made an appearance in this fresh and airy lineup, adding a structured contrast to the otherwise fluid silhouettes. Adamo’s penchant for contrasts and genre-blending was evident throughout. For instance, a fine-knit tank top was layered over a tailored suit jacket, cinched at the waist like a corset, creating a look that juxtaposed delicate femininity with sharp tailoring.

“Faster, higher, stronger” might well have been the unofficial mantra of Avavav’s show, which took place in an athletic stadium. Guests were handed race bibs with their seat numbers upon arrival before settling in along the track, where they were greeted with energy drinks and vitamin bars. Capitalising on the buzz of the Olympic summer, the concept was a clever move by the Swedish brand, which also used the occasion to unveil a collaboration with Adidas.

The iconic three stripes of Adidas were ubiquitous throughout the collection—on garments, footwear, and accessories, and even painted directly onto the models’ bodies to simulate athletic tops, some left intentionally unfinished. The signature stripes also appeared as three white laces hanging as fringe from a cap, obscuring the wearer’s face.

Adidas’ logo featured prominently along the sleeves and legs of sleek suits, cropped tops in bold black and red, a puffer jacket, and even a hooded bodysuit that, paired with oversized sunglasses and leggings, gave the models the appearance of deep-sea divers. In another standout piece, a classic track jacket extended into floor-length panels, transforming into a flowing dress that trailed behind the model.
 

Designer Beate Karlsson, who leads the brand creatively alongside business partner Johanna Blom, is renowned for her playful and desirable accessories. Her designs this season included bags constructed from rows of sneakers, oversized three-finger mittens, and Avavav’s signature four-toed rubber flippers, now outfitted with cleats and Adidas’ iconic three stripes. Karlsson’s signature quirky touches were evident throughout the collection, such as a collarless banker’s jacket with a scalloped neckline and porthole cutouts on grey flannel trousers.

As the show began, a speaker announced a challenge: to break the world record for the shortest sprint distance—just 80 meters. Models, adorned in whimsical athletic attire, took to the track with varying levels of enthusiasm. Some collapsed dramatically after just a few meters, gasping for breath, while others trotted leisurely down the runway. One model seemed to barely move, while another sauntered across the track, completely glued to her phone. A few models, wrapped in bloodied elastic bandages around their limbs or torsos, added a macabre twist, wearing the bandages as socks, strapless dresses, or even bridal gowns.

Although running models down the runway isn’t entirely new—Milanese label Sunnei experimented with a similar concept in 2022, having models sprint down 110 meters of asphalt, and Paris-based Aalto also hosted a fast-paced runway along the Seine—Avavav’s performance on Sunday felt tamer than its previous boundary-pushing shows.

Chiccomao wrapped up the day with an eclectic collection that combined a variety of styles, materials, and eras. The dense collection brought together baroque-inspired pieces in brocade fabrics, shimmering, tapestry-like textiles, medieval influences with crocheted hoods and ornate vests reminiscent of doublets, and romantic touches with cascades of lace, embroidery, and trimmings. The gothic influence was also evident, with black looks featuring skeleton prints or spine-shaped necklaces worn down the back.

Mao Baobao, who graduated from the Italian fashion school Istituto Marangoni in 2013, founded his eponymous label the same year with the goal of blending traditional Chinese craftsmanship with contemporary design.

His diverse collection catered to a wide range of archetypes: from the intellectual in glasses and a dark trench coat with bold red lapels, to the rebellious rocker clad in biker boots, metallic chains, leather gloves, and a zippered skirt, to the preppy student in knee-high socks, a black vest, and a crisp white blouse. And, of course, there was the vamp, draped in opulent, heavily embellished gowns. However, there was perhaps an overabundance of ideas, leaving the collection feeling somewhat overwhelming and difficult to navigate.