On a busy Sunday in Milan menswear, four brand caught the attention, especially for their innovative and expected use of materials – Dunhill, Tod’s, Mordecai and Santoni.
Dunhill: The gent is back
Buyer friendly menswear, and nothing wrong with that, at Dunhill, fully in tandem with the new taste for gentlemanly chic.
The collection marked Chief Creative Officer Simon Holloway’s second collection for the UK marque. Last season, he presented under classical oil paintings in the British Museum in London. This Sunday he unveiled spring/summer clothes in a hidden verdant Milanese garden dotted with statues.
Yet his aesthetic remained constant: hyper sartorial chic. From his opening suede safari worn with white jeans, David Hemmings Blow Up style. To a spruce pale gray three-piece suit, worn with bowling shoes. Lots of essential gents gear – from burnished leather briefcase and suitably aged monks to some great umbrellas with pewter British bulldog handles. Well, it does rain a lot in Blighty.
Holloway also played on the house’s signature Bourdon suit, in double and single-breasted versions.
But what made this collection was the innovative used of very lightweight fabrics in otherwise classic choices of herringbone, windowpane and Glencheck. All the way to the whisper light micro polka-dot tuxedo that was the star of the evening looks.
“Crafted by the heritage mills of Somerset, Yorkshire and Biella, the material evolution heralds the House focus on supporting artisanal workmanship in the art of cloth,” underlined Holloway in his program notes.
Above all, after a half dozen post-pandemic seasons where men were meant to skip suits and wear clothes adaptable for home working, it was refreshing to see something so dressed up and purposeful. For lovers of post Anglo style, no need to worry where to find your wardrobe. Dunhill ticks all the boxes.
“These are not basic clothes for going into the office. These are clothes for enjoyment, for a life well-lived,” concluded Holloway.
Tods: Artisanal Intelligence
Tod’s staged a swish presentation inside a Milanese art institution PAC, where craftsmen skillfully sewed together their classic moccasin. Except one could only see their hands.
A smart play on the brand’s theme this season, their goal of marrying artificial and artisanal Intelligence, rather than letting AI dominate our future.
“It’s vital for our brand and for all our employees that we embrace and understand AI but never let it control who we are and what we stand for,” explained Tod’s CEO Diego Della Valle.
“We see there can be great benefits in AI, as in all the advances in modern sciences, like in medicine. But it is essential we keep all our values of craftsmanship and craft intelligence. We have to keep our own people at the very center of our thoughts,” added Diego.
One reaction to this thinking is the Pashmy project, where Tod’s researches and selects the softest and silkiest of fabrics, reminiscent of the delicacy of the touch of a pashmina. Seen in a stylish array of outerwear. The collection marked the menswear debut of Creative Director Matteo Tamburini, who concentrated on timeless Italian elegance, creating a very plausible wardrobe. Ranging from some great funnel neck suede tunics with patch pockets; very cool cornflower blue suede blazers and shirt jackets doubled with a membrane and heat-sealed.
Tamburini was also self-confident enough to play with the iconic Gommino, with a new sabot version. And with a bold series of nail varnish like finishes to classic moccasins; and a punchier new version of the T logo metal emblem.
A debut feted with an amusing dinner inside Il Baretto, the Milanese restaurant of the moment, washed down by some excellent 2019 red Barolo named Lo Zoccolaio. Which, aptly, means clog in Italian.
Mordecai: A star is born
Just when we thought we’d expire from ennui after a weekend of predictable polish, along came Ludovico Bruno with a great new nomadic warrior menswear statement at Mordecai.
“Essentially my silhouette is an 8 shape,” explains Bruno, who cuts oversized tailoring with Raglan sleeves the better to mimic the figure eight.
Seen in inspirational safari coats; padded military jackets and a brilliant range of Asian-inspired martial arts looks. All made in washed silks, boiled wool and techy treated materials.
“I like sports, martial arts and uniforms. I really got fascinated by Indian doctors wearing white cotton shirt from the knees with a clen high collar – so elegant,” explained this red-headed Milanese.
Ludovico spent 10 years in the design department of Moncler, designing its Genius collection, and Mordecai offers some cool unpredictable puffers with central rolled columns – made in faded yellows, light khaki. High collars sprouted everywhere – from padded judo jackets to stiff silk kimonos, all very empowering.
Often made in Italy, but occasionally like techy nylon raincoats and multi pocket flight suits made in China. As Bruno deems that country better at finishing seams in techy garments.
All finished with his signature – an erratic width triple stripe. Seen on sculpted best-selling cargo pants worthy of his hero Brancusi. A great and unexpected collection all the way to a couture worthy dressing gown, made of hyper bizarre shaved leather that looks like terylene.
Santoni: Growth through groovy colors
Swish, sleek and yet savvily sensible at Santoni, the footwear brand with the most panache in Milan menswear.
Latest ideas include putty gray suede moccasins and wingtips with uber comfy spongy soles. Or soft sleek slip-ons in burnished leather made in shades like petrol green or burnt peach – finished with orange side stitching. Breaking new ground, a new sandal meets classic double buckle monk, all presented inside an Art Liberty gallery renamed Piazza Santoni for the day.
All Santoni shoes come with signature orange soles, except those with rubber soles, which then have orange Santoni logos.
“We stay formal but like to play a lot with colors. Classic but with a casual interpretation,” explained the ebullient CEO Giuseppe Santoni.
He sees future growth via ladies’ shoes; bigger distribution and more leather goods – like the excellent intreccio leather weekenders, again in novel colors like corn blue and blood orange.
“Our goal is more points of sales, and more customers appreciating the value of the brand,” adds Giuseppe.
Next up, Santoni is planning a store in London on New Bond Street, hopefully by year’s end, and one in Doha. It recently repositioned in New York and has opened earlier this year in Kuwait and Marbella. Capital investment is significant.
With everything always produced in Corridonia, in Santoni’s key solo plant in Le Marche region.
“In Made in Italy, the made is not important. It is the hand and head that makes the difference and the culture behind it, that’s why it has to be produced in our own factory,” he stressed.
“The essence of Santoni’s DNA is that real luxury and quality stays in the product. No bullshit,” insists the ever-direct Giuseppe, who sports a Cavaliere del Lavoro pin – a distinction awarded three years ago – on the lapel of his white double-breasted suit.
How, one wondered had he scooped Louis Vuitton CEO Pietro Beccari, who will receive the same award this fall?
“I can make shoes better than him!” he laughed.
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